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Iriedaily | Somewearelse, where colours are voices
German version of this article you'll find exclusive
in the printed issue of stw2d.
Both Daniel and Walt were raised in
the Allgäu. Together they went to Berlin. That was years
ago. In 1994 they meet JayBo Monkey in Berlin, who came from
the south of France. Together and for the last ten years they
have managed to create something unique and unmistakeable- IRIEDAILY.
Their collection has been available in the Netherlands and Italy
since 1997. Austria and Switzerland came next in 2001, followed
in 2002 by Belgium. Most recently their collections are available
in Finland and Denmark. In the first 8 years Iriedaily managed
to increase their revenue by 45% each year. A remarkable business
story, yet in truth, it is far more than that.
How did it all start?
Walt: We started with W.A.R.D.-Production
in 1990, which was founded by Achim, Role, Daniel and myself.
The name came from the first letter in each of our own names.
In the beginning we were mostly keeping ourselves busy with band
merchandising and screen printing. JayBo joined us in 1994 and
we founded IRIEDAILY. We then moved our focus to a more design,
production, marketing and distribution approach. Due to that
development we closed our own printing press and Achim, who up
until this point was responsible for the screen printing, left.
He went on to open up his own screen printing company (www.printwork-berlin.de). Role, who used
to be responsible for the product development, left in 2003 to
start living his dream of beaches, sun and surfing. He is currently
living on Tenerife and renting out canoes. Next time you're there
check out www.canoa-canaries.com,
and find out what it means to live the IRIEDAILY motto: STOP
WORKING-GO OUT AND RIDE.
Daniel: All the best to Role and Achim. They were an important
part to the family and both went their way. Achim is doing what
he is best at and Role is living his dream.
JayBo: Long live Role, Aloha. Without him IRIEDAILY wouldn't
be what it is today.
 What does Somewearelse, where colours
are voices mean?
JayBo: "somewear" is our way
of representing our outsider status, it's a pun. On the other
side it means somewhere else, and furthermore, it also represents
something for the people that like to wear something else.
"where colours are voices" is in reference to the origin
of the "Irie-people". I don't care where they come
from, what colour their skin is or what religion they belong
to. The Irie-person is loud and let's you know if something doesn't
sit right. At the same time the Irie-person also needs to have
the tolerance to grow, as the one that is loud also needs to
listen well. You should listen before you scream.
What was happening in Berlin-Kreuzberg
around 1994 and what relationship do you have with 36?
Daniel: In 1994 things were happening
in Berlin. The thing that impressed me the most was the Do-It-Yourself
attitude, which came from the whole punk and independent scene
at the time. You can do everything you want, you just have to
have to guts to do so. The former east block was open and not
so wild anymore, but you could still build something from scratch
with little money. 36 is the name for the old district Kreuzberg,
our second home, which we have been loyal to for 20 years.
Walt: 1993/94 was, for me, the time when Hip-Hop
took over from Punk. Kreuzberg 36 was a little Gallic village
made up of punks, punk-rock musicians, draft dodgers and skaters
and many more sub-cultures. It was a place where you could live
your own alternative life-style. The conflict with "normal"
society and the control organs of the state were omnipresent.
One has to do say though that it literally was a village, a life
outside Kreuzberg did not exist and wasn't relevant at all. After
the wall went down and the ever increasing influence of Hip-Hop,
structures started to develop. In the former eastern part of
Kreuzberg basement parties started to emerge that solely played
Hip-Hop. The new underground started to emerge, this time, rather
than it being angry white kids, it was angry black kids. The
bands that got their T-Shirts printed from us were no longer
just Punk Bands but Hip-Hop and Reggae Crews, Graffiti Artists
and Streetwear companies. At this time a lot of Artists were
starting up their own businesses. They organized concerts and
events or opened bars and clubs. The structures that were developing
were exactly the ones that used to be criticized before. The
opportunity arose to do it better yet start to live like the
rest.
36 stands for roots and values in which we grew up. It was very
important for our development and our way of life even though
we now live in 10999 Berlin.
JayBo: Since 1990 Hip-Hop has been merged into
this city. For two years I played in the band Reality Brothers
and we gigged the club scene in Kreuzberg. We organized concerts,
free style sessions, mini-festivals where you'd play with bands
like cps, in which Walt and Bindo played. Property in the old
Berlin Wall area was cheap and perfect for these kinds of events.
Hip-Hop then was free off the commercial pressures it has now
and we were proud to part of that underground. Hip-Hop gave us
everything we needed, a global entertainment unit which combined
the four elements of graffiti, dj-ing, break dancing and rapping,
so, everything you needed on a T-Shirt. That's how I got in touch
with W.A.R.D. who had a real good network for the bands in the
area. The chemistry between W.A.R.D. and myself worked instantly
and has been so ever since. The whole district was very young,
where all kinds of ethnic and interest groups worked and respected
each other. The cultures merged which made it a metropolis. Everybody
involved wasn't really from Berlin as well, but from the west
of Germany, England, France, wherever.
What gave you the biggest impression
and what influenced you?
JayBo: Hip-Hop definitely at first and
the Do-It-Yourself punk attitude, with a little bit of Reggae.
In 1994, I thought I could anything I wanted, no matter what
it is, it's still that way today.
I watched Stüssy, Yagga, talked to Jamalsky and Massive
Attack or Poor Righteous Teachers. All that really pushed us
towards the Independent. Since then I have stuck to the old saying,
that there is an alternative to the Babylon system, so fuck the
greed and stay real.
JayBo, what are you doing
when you are not designing artworks and colour ways for IRIEDAILY?
JayBo: I am the co-founder and Creative
Director for style and the family values, which was also founded
in 1994, the magic year. Before that I played in the band Reality
Brothers and Mellowbag, did some theatre with Jean Vedier, Charla
Drops and Unart. I also opened up a bar called "ZOULOU"
and since the 11th of September 2000 I've had the chance to work
in Art.
Tell me what the deal is with
IRIEACT?
Walt: Due to the lack of money in the
Streetwear industry we had to come up with an alternative marketing
plan. Thanks to the good connections we have to the "street",
for example Musicians, Actors and Athletes, we are able to promote
our brand through product placement rather than doing the classical
advertisement. This way, we can all learn how to respect and
learn from another as well as support each other better. So we
sponsor musicians, athletes and actors.
The fact that we are fans or friends of the artists stays in
the forefront. There is usually a direct connection between us.
A certain skate style or a certain type of music sometimes just
perfectly represents what we are all about. In this context IRIEACT
came about, where actors that we respected approached us to do
PR work. We sponsor them and they sponsor us.
What are the different lines,
LMTD, CALI, JUGGA and IRIEGINALS all about?
Daniel: You could write whole books
about the different lines! For me, they are about the different
faces of a project, which come out of the fact that we don't
have a typical hierarchical structure at IRIEDAILY which also
means that we have to respect different styles. If you push everything
into one style it will no longer be clear.
Walt: We try to meet the different demands with the different
lines, to be innovative and fashionable and at the same time
trying to create our own identity. To develop styles, to produce
them well with attention to detail and good quality, and still
have god price points.
LMTD-Green-INSPIRATION-Hope
This collection is being mainly created under the theme of fashionable
and design orientated aspects. The timing in which a brand delivers
certain styles show their cutting-edge, it's about being a trend
setter rather than a follower.
CALI-Red-Revolution-Blood &
Love
The CORE idea is very important here as well. IRIEDAILY is from
Kreuzberg, we've been designing and developing our collections
in this area for 10 years. The visuals are strongly influenced
by the punk-rock scene, skate-, BMX and punk scene and our own
early days in the early 90's.
JUGGA-Yellow-IDENTITY-Sun
IRIEDAILY has its own identity. It's not some fashion product
that changes with trends and views it's customers as exploitable
media by-products. An army of pacifistic-reggae listening folk
is not a contradiction as such; it's part of our reality.
IRIEGINALS-Red-Yellow-Green
and all shades in between-EQUALITY
It's the combination of all these facts that makes us always
want to be IRIE, to develop an originality which doesn't restrict
but binds. Get the spirit not the fame.
JayBo: Green stands for hope
and the new. LMTD is the new and experimental part. RED is for
love and passion, for Globalsidewalkentertainment. Everything
that is fun to do on a sidewalk, street skating, football, graffiti,
hackysack or Frisbee. Yellow is for sun, and Jugga is for Jugganaute,
our army of peace. Tolerance and urban guerrilla. For the lack
of sun. Don't be a fool, money is the reason of all evil. In
peace we trust.
Red-Yellow-Green and all shades
in between, when you mix all the colours of the rainbow you get
white.
Most of your products are manufactured
in Europe, predominantly Portugal, and you do not use sub-contractors.
Why is that so important for you?
Daniel: We try and stop our suppliers
from using sub-contractors as we would not know under what conditions
our products would be produced. A company our size isn't also
always able to control all of our suppliers. Hence, the long
collaboration with our suppliers in Portugal, as we know what's
going on there. Obviously, there are parts in the collection
such as hats and accessories which cannot be produced in Portugal
and that come through the normal channels via Asia where we just
have to trust our suppliers.
JayBo: We have the Portuguese's word on that issue, they've
been part of us from the beginning and we trust. They are part
of the family.
Fairtrade-what are your thoughts
on that?
Daniel: We cannot support it 100% with
our means, but one should always, as a consumer as well, think
about where the product is produced before buying it.
Walt: There is no Fairtrade, it is an illusion to think that
as a small brand you can control all the little production paths.
What it does do is elevate the consciousness of the consumer
about the brands integrity.
JayBo: Treat others the way you them to treat you.
How does that affect your price
points?
Daniel: You can only sell your brand
in the long run, if the consumer can identify and trust your
brand and if the relationship between the prices and product
are correct.
Walt: The cost is always going to be the crucial element. If
your products are too expensive then that's not going to help
anyone. You learn to deal with it. Sometimes you surrender certain
designs or details. The retail price is always part of the basic
elements; it is part of the whole production and design process.
Words of Honour, trust, and a handshake are important
to you. How does that work?
Daniel: It's not totally possible without contracts, a pre-order,
for example, is one type of contract. We try and minimize our
legal work as much as possible. As long as both side are fair
it will work out. This approach does pertain that any work will
be on a long term basis.
JayBo: It only works when both sides use good common sense,
trust each other and keep to those words of honour. Lawyers are
"the kings of Babylon" and I detest people that make
their money from lying.
Have you been disappointed
as a result of this?
Daniel: Sure, it doesn't always work,
but luckily the disappointments have been few and far between.
JayBo: Of course, but without making mistakes you'll never
learn.
Walt, you yourself are a sales
representative in the East. How do you see that development?
Walt: The retail structure in the East
is a lot younger. A lot of our customers opened their own shops
in the beginning of the streetwear, skate,-and Hip-Hop era. They
practically grew up in that era, and thus have very close relationships
to their customers. They have become very loyal to the brands
that they have grown up with and even forgive you if you have
a weak season.
We have been in those shops pretty much since they have opened
and have, with their help, slowly build a strong market presence
for ourselves. We're profiting from that approach now, so even
during a recession we are still making profits.
Looking back on the last 10
years, when would you say "I've made it!"?
JayBo: Not now, the journey is the goal,
not the finish line.
Walt: I am still waiting for that moment. It's more like
walking up some stairs, seeing a door, walking through it and
seeing another set of stairs and seeing another door.
Daniel: The first time I closed the door in our office, the last
trade show
I hope that feeling will come a few more times.
Have you ever wanted to chuck
it all in?
Walt: Yeah! However, IRIEDAILY gives
me the opportunity to do it differently. I have to do it, and
one thing I have noticed is that the longer I do this the less
time I want to spend on other things.
Daniel: It's like Ying and Yang. As often as you get a
kick out of it as often you want to throw it all away.
What's it like to be friends
and to be working together for so long?
JayBo: I love my work and I love my
friends, I hope they love me.
Walt: It's my childhood dream come true. If there are
any problems or conflicts we solve as friends. On that basis
we all can work exceptionally well. There's a sort of blind trust
there and we all know what our strength's and weaknesses are.
Daniel: There are pros and cons, obviously. One of the
cons is that you become increasingly sensitive to the others
habit's. One of the pros is that, like in football, that you
become accustomed to the other players needs.
What do you respect?
Walt: People that do their own thing.
Daniel: People that do rather than talk.
JayBo: I respect honesty and good work.
What do you consider a successful
business?
Walt: To do the things that one loves
and inspires. To work with people that you like and to make money
to live.
Daniel: To do your own thing with the people that you
like without taking the piss out of people.
What do you do to relax?
JayBo: Nothing, I am relaxed as it is.
Walt: Spend time with my kids, Raquel and Vincent. To
hang out with my friends and play football.
Daniel: We are IRIEDAILY, we are relaxed!
What motivates you?
Walt: JayBo, Daniel, to get better at
what I do, make better styles, and solving problems.
JayBo: My family.
What would you do different
today?
JayBo: Nothing. No regrets.
Walt: We are a Do-It-Yourself company. Nobody really learned
what they are doing today at IRIEAILY, but because of IRIEDAILY
we all have learned loads. In that sense, I would probably do
a lot of things different, have more structure
What do you want to say to
the people?
JayBo: A "megasuperhydraphatestbigenormous"
thank you for your support.
Walt: GET THE SPIRIT NOT THE FAME!
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