MINORU WATANABE & DAVID TRING passion for details
[ german version of this article you'll find exclusive in the printed issue 1 / 06 of stw2d! ]
Working for Wrangler is not the only connection
between Minoru Watanabe and David Tring, product directors and
designers of the Wrangler Blue Bell collection. They both share
a passion for denim and talking shop about old denim jackets,
shirts and trousers. Always in search for anecdotes about old
clothing, they are digging in archives and libraries for papers,
photos and other material from the good old days in order to
document Wrangler's history for future generations. With all
their re-releases of original Wrangler trousers and jackets they
pay attention to every little detail. To reappraise the history
of the Hudson Overall Company, which was later to become known
as Wrangler, a synonym for hard-working cowboys, seems to be
their mission. The name of the vintage collection "Blue
Bell" is derived from Hudson's first factory, the "Blue
Bell Overall Company". The factory got its name from a bell
which hung from the shop floor's ceiling and was covered with
blue dust. In 1947 Hudson assigned tailor Ben Lichtenstein to
develop the first Wrangler jeans. Under the name Rodeo Ben, Lichtenstein
had designed outfits for many popular western heros and country
musicians in the 1930s and 40s. He asked the best rodeo riders
for advice to be able to meet the cowboys needs. He thus perfected
every little detail - from seams to rivets. Minoru and David
too, are very careful in replicating pockets, belt loops and
embroideries. The fabrics and threads they use have the same
colour and thickness as in the old days. The cut-seam inside
and outside of the legs are the typical features of Wrangler
Blue Bells. Working in denim business for more than 20 years,
Minoru Watanabe is still fascinated with new techniques of washing
and equipping denim. He is also fascinated by the fact that the
most different people wear the most different jeans. Since the
middle of the 1990s denim replications are highly sought-after
in Japan. And the market for antique originals and authentic
replications is still growing in Japan. The prototype of the
first Wrangler jacket is the highlight of Minoru Watanabe's collection.
Such items are available around Harajuku in Tokyo or in selected
vintage shops, which are specialized on rare, precious denims.
For S/S 06 David and Minoru have selected some rare pieces, too,
among them the reproduction of a 27MW Slim Fit shirt from 1952,
one of the first 11oz Men's jeans jackets from 1949, two trousers
one of which (the ‚11MW jean') bears the original "plastic
Blue Bell back pocket patch", and the ‚Screw Driver
Western jean', a dungaree with classic western elements. Next
to Great Britain and Scandinavia, Italy is the most important
market for historic denim collections. In Germany there are just
a few insiders who carry Wrangler's Blue bell line, among them
the Rock-A-Tiki in Berlin. The complete shop listing can be found
on Blue Bell's website.